2023 Domaine Borgeot Puligny-Montrachet' Les Meix'

Run by two brothers, Laurent and Pascal, the cellars are in the village of Remigny, just across the winding River Dheune which divides the Côte de Beaune from the Côte Chalonnaise. Domaine Borgeot is one of only four growers in the village. The estate was founded by the brothers’ grandfather in 1919 and now stands at 20 ha, stretching from Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise up to Puligny-Montrachet. Grapes from Laurent’s wife, Sandra, who has 2.5 ha of her own vines, also go into the domaine’s wines. Production is split 60:40 in favour of white and they have a handy 3 ha holding in Santenay including premier crus, Les Gravières and Les Beauregards. The windmill which looks out over Les Gravières features on their labels. Synthetic treatments of the vines are minimised, with Laurent describing the domaine as ‘bio-raisonnée’, a sort of halfway house between conventional and organic cultivation. Pascal's daughter Julia is now heavily involved in the winemaking.

This is single-vineyard Puligny-Montrachet from the Les Meix vineyard, located just below the famed premier cru “Les Pucelles" and very close to the grand cru "Bâtard Montrachet." Handpicked, of course. Vinification is traditional, and the wine is fermented and aged entirely in oak, about 20% new. 2023 was a fine vintage, with Puligny-Montrachet in particular standing out for freshness and vibrancy of aromatics. I found this bottling so exciting in its vibrant acidity and nervy tension- it felt alive in my mouth! The fruit flavors were so fresh, pure and juicy, and the interplay of acidity and oak just felt perfect. The flavors I was reminded of ranged from citrus, poached pear, and white peach to delicious fresh cream, hints of toast, and lots of stone mineral notes. There's a faint hint of savory herbs running through- tarragon maybe? The lifted feeling carries through the looooooooong finish. This will keep getting better for the next 8-10 years, but its hard to turn down now.