NV Domaine de la Dentelle Bugey Cerdon Rosé Methode Ancestrale

"I discovered Bugey-Cerdon over 20 years ago (wow, am I THAT old??) when I was making a visit to the Kermit Lynch store up in Berkeley. I was there to taste a bunch of wines and, on the way out, I walked by a floor-stacked wine with an interesting (I should say ugly) label and asked about it. The Rep told me it was an obscure, sparkling, off-dry rosé from South-Eastern France and handed me a bottle to take with me to taste. As soon as I tasted it, I was convinced that it was such a fun, delicious and drinkable wine, that, even though it was so obscure, it would be a big hit…and it was! It became one of the most popular wines we ever carried. I tried to recreate the magic when we opened Enoteca almost 13 years ago, but I didn’t get a chance to do it justice by pouring it by the glass and telling people about it - and it never really took off. I’ve tasted others over the years, but never really got excited enough to make another push – until I tasted THIS one. This one is much different from the rest. It’s got much more going on than the others. Don’t let the appealing pink color fool you into thinking it’s not a serious wine. It’s organic. It’s made from vines that are over 100 years (Poulsard) and 40 years old (Gamay). It’s made on a much smaller scale than most others. Given the fact that Valentine’s Day is just around the corner – and that this may just be the PERFECT Valentine’s Day wine – I couldn’t resist. Enjoy this gluggable sparkler on its own, with chocolate or fruit-based desserts – or even go the other way and pair it with something fatty and salty, like grilled sausages." -Mike Guerra, Advanced Sommelier 

Winery Background

Between Jura and Savoie, the tiny appellation of Bugey Cerdon – with fewer than 200 hectares planted to vine – is the base of operations for Domaine de la Dentelle. Marcel Perinet began in the restaurant industry and rose to serve as director of 3–Michelin-starred Georges Blanc in Vonnas. After 41 years of working for Blanc, Perinet inherited just over a hectare of land in Cerdon du Bugey and decided it was time to change his focus. 

Now expanded to six hectares, only one style of wine is produced: Méthode Ancestrale Rosé Demi-Sec. Perinet employed his deep experience, strong work ethic, and exacting standards to create a slightly different version of this classic sparkling rosé, one that highlights acidity and balance over sweetness. Most producers in Cerdon use predominately Gamay grapes and high sulfur, resulting in extreme sweetness. Since his first vintage in 2013, Perinet has worked organically. The blend, 80% of 100-year-old Poulsard and 20% of 40-year-old Gamay, is vinified and bottled without the addition of sulfur. 

Region – Bugey-Cerdon

Cerdon is one of three sub appellations in the Bugey appellation of the southern Jura mountains. The wines are exclusively sparkling rosés made from the Gamay and Poulsard grape varieties.

 They have become one of the most famous wines made in this part of eastern France. This is despite them being in stark contrast to the light, alpine white wines for which Bugey and Savoie are famous.

These are floral, slightly sweet rosés; residual sugars must be between 22 and 80 grams per liter. Alcohol by volume is between 7 and 8.5 percent by volume. 

Bugey Cerdon wines are made in the méthode ancestrale. This differs slightly from the méthode traditionelle used in Champagne in that there is no second application of yeasts or sugars during production.

This leaves the wines with a noticeable quantity of residual sugar and a distinctly grapey flavor. The technique is used in other sparkling wines around France, such as Blanquette de Limoux and Clairette de Die.

The Cerdon cru covers the vineyards that surround the small village of Cerdon within the Ain administrative department. The village is located in an area of chaotic topography – a tight patchwork of rounded hills, ridges and narrow valleys in the southern Jura mountains.

The vineyards here are divided between two key slopes: one immediately west of the village itself, the other a little way to the south. These steep, southeast facing slopes, with their sunny aspect and free draining soils, are perfect for ripening the grapes.

The vines not only enjoy prolonged exposure to the sunshine; their southeasterly slant means they receive the gentler morning rays rather than the harsher afternoon sun. This, in turn, allows the grapes to ripen at a more leisurely pace, which means they retain a certain acidity by harvest time, when their flavors are at their peak.

The Bugey appellation was promoted to AOC status in 2009 following 50 years as VDQS. The Cerdon cru, along with Manicle and Montagnieu, has been singled out as producing Bugey wines of particular quality and thus may append its name as part of the appellation title.

Winemaking – Methode Ancestrale

They bottle this low-alcohol wine using the méthode ancestrale. a rare technique that experts believe predates the méthode champenoise used in Champagne. The wine first goes through a primary fermentation in cuvée (literally “tank” in French), but is then bottled before all of the residual sugar has converted to alcohol. After going through a secondary fermentation in the bottle for at least two months, the wine is ready—Champagne’s dosage is not permitted! The resulting wine is delightfully refreshing with bright fruit, a beautiful rose hue, and a touch of sweetness.

Main Varietal - Poulsard

Poulsard is an ancient red-skinned French grape variety that is a specialty of Arbois in northernJura. Thin skins and pale coloring are the most obvious traits of Poulsard, while delicate perfumes are a lesser-known quality. Red wines produced from Poulsard may be so lacking incolor that they are mistaken as rosé, and indeed white wine (Blanc de Noir) can be made from it by limiting skin contact. 

In the vineyard, Poulsard buds early and is at serious risk from spring frosts, especially because the skin of the berries are thin and offer little protection. It is also susceptible to mildew, coulure and sunburn requiring some highly attentive management from vignerons. Long ferments are typically used in production of Poulsard wine to draw out as much flavor as possible.

Poulsard is an interesting variety in that it is used to make white, rosé, red and sparkling wines. The most common incarnation of the variety is red skinned, but white, pink and black musqué mutations have been documented. Poulsard is commonly found in a blended with Gamay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau.

Wine

80% Poulsard (100 years old), 20% Gamay (40 years old). Organic. Produced via méthode ancestrale. Aged 12 months on lees (which is much longer than the AOP requirement of two months), which contributes more depth and complexity. No sulfur is added during vinification and bottling. Harvest is carried out by hand and the grapes are pressed directly after picking. 100% whole cluster into bladder press, keeping only the core of the pressed juice. The final wine is always a single vintage every year but is labeled non-vintage. 

Tasting Notes

The wine is beautiful rose color with appealing wild strawberry, black cherry, nuanced floral and wet stone aromas. On the palate, it’s off-dry with a very frothy, delicate mousse and tangy acidity, with wild strawberry, black cherry and a hint of citrus flavors complicated by an enticing minerality and a very giving finish.

Reviews/Ratings/Accolades

Here’s a big shocker – this wine has not been rated by any of the major US wine publications. I love typing that! This fun, fizzy, pretty, low-alcohol wine can be our little secret!

Food Pairing

This may be the perfect Valentine’s Day wine – cuz it’s pink, fruity, sparkly, fun…and will pair well with chocolate! Hmm, mere coincidence?? It’s also low in alcohol. If not for V-Day, try it for brunch. Yes, it will pair well with chocolate and fruit-based desserts (strawberry cheesecake or shortcake anyone?). But I can also see it with spicy Asian, or maybe even Mexican food (Chile Relleno comes to mind). Remember, a general pairing technique is to contrast a wine with the food pairing, so this wine’s sparkly, fruity notes (and it’s only 8% abv) make a wonderful counterpoint to salty, fatty foods. Wanna have some fun? Pair it with grilled sausages.

Optimal Drinking Window: Now through 2026.